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About Zwuckel

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  1. Hi Ibirose, In my opinion I recommend to not train to failure. It seems your work load is pretty high. Anyways did you tried out "I am packing my bag" maybe also known as defining? I think it is a nice game to play with others. So basically Boulderer #1 is choosing the starting position and first move. Then Boulderer #2 will do the same pattern and chossing the second move. Everyone has x lifes. You can play with chossing footsteps or not. Advantages: - high social integration - little bit competition - learning different climbing styles - high endurance factor
  2. Hi there, A pure Boulderer from Germany, Düsseldorf here. Just want to put in some additional maybe contrary information here. !Personal opinion! Since I am not doing rope climbing (due to fear of heights (yes I tried to condition myself but it did not worked well)) I have to say that in the beginning a focus on technique is not necessary. From my experience and from what I see at my climbing gym for bouldering a mixture between strength endurance and maximum strength is required to increase your your climbing grade.I am at FB 6a+ currently. Boulderin itself is total technique training. As a smart person you will always figure out the sufficicent technique even if it takes time (which is very individual eg. I am 1.65cm and people which are 1.80 have complete different style) so the limitation factor is raw strength. My training is held inside as preperation to outside. I warm up on the easiest boulders and then doing strong ones. Always between a mixture of ones I accomplished and some which are projects. In the meantime I do maximum strength training with gymnastics like front lever, back lever planche lsit, and dead hangs which is contributing strength in exceptional situations like manteling and in higher grade boulders where you start to use your triceps and chest muscles Important is that I am not going to muscle failure (one of the most importatn things for max strength training). But if we take a look on the worlds professionals there are many differences between the traiing styles because climbing as a "mainstream" sport is pretty young and sufficient training theories are missing. For example Adam Ondra is / was pretty bad in comparison to others on the campus board but still climbing 9a. On the other hand the world champion in bouldering, a russian (don´t know the name) is mostly just doing pull up (okay they are weighted pull ups and 700 clustered ones at a trainig day) One of the most sophisticated scientific approaches I have senn by now is the finger max strength training guideline by Dr. Eva Lopez. She has some very deep scientific approaches to max strength of fingers. Also offering training tool called progression and transgression which is a training board whith different ledge sizes. Also inside/outside bouldering differs, Inside can be high dynamic whereas outside is a little bit more static due to grip and step searching and higher demand for precision. Anyhow besides all this training things I like climbing in generally the most because it is a sport where you are not dependent from others but have a big social part. ALso you are coming around visiting differnt countries and places checking out the cultures and also big connection to nature. Please notice again this is my personal opinion Sebastian.
  3. Hi, Thanks for your replies and welcoming. @sylkamaru: link in your signature does not work. ;D
  4. Hi, Thanks for your replies and welcoming. @sylkamaru: link in your signature does not work. ;D
  5. Hi Nerdfitness people, My name is Sebastian and I am following NF maybe for one year or longer. Although I started with Sports long time before, this one really great site with great articels and [/insert all possible glorifications here]. Today I thought maybe the Forum has even more information and maybe I can also contribute here as well. I will start to write down my current sports schedule then picking a class/race, telling something about my goals and finally some personal info. This year has started very good for me. Somehow I overcame some motivation and discipline issues (Which were not big but exisitng) and improving my habits step by step. Somehow I am not thinking about if I am motivated today or not. I simply do. Body profile: 165cm / about 5'4 to 5'5 65 kg 25 yo So for four weeks I am at the peak and doing this: 3 times a week bouldering. (Which is a sub of rock climbing) This is my major sport for 1 and a half year. Currently on a Fb 6a / V1 (Sounds weak on V scale). This is building up my strength through intermuscular coordination. 1 time per week lifting weights for four weeks. Basic exercises (Squats (50 kgs); Deadlift (50 kgs); Benchpress approx. 45 kgs) This is reducing the risk of getting shoulder or elbow injuries from climbing. (very common) and gives me a bulkier look. (If it allowed to say at 65 kgs ) 2-3 times riding bycicle to the gyms. I have the feeling this gives me not only stamina but also a better regeneration. I do not have the feeling that doing different types of sports is contraproductive, it is more like contributing each other. Anyhow I sleep round about 9 hours per day to keep up this programm. Once every 4 - 6 weeks I do a deload. My nutrition consists mostly of low processed food. No counting, no overdoing. Just simple whole grain products and chicken spiced with vegetables and fruits. I would say I am a Dwarf / Elve (obviously) Warrior / Assasin / Ranger. (I have some problems here. Climbing is for Assasin. But Bouldering is not stamina but strength to strength endurance. Also Warrior says pure strength by weight training. How about front lever and planche training? For me it is strength training. Maybe functional strength from Ranger?) Goals (There is no main focus and no time limit by now) 1: Doing Planche and front lever 2: Getting better in bouldering through consistent training. (Fun is focus therefore no time limit) 3: Starting distance learning at university (mechanical engineering) Some pictures can be found on Facebook: "Boulder Basti" Feel free to add if you like. What makes me a nerd? Basically I like all Marvel / DC movies. Played a lot of Final Fantasy titles (which are disapointing nowadays from my point of view) Generaly love JRPGs and a huge LOtR Fan. One of the few who read the book before the movies. Also interested in many things (which I also considering as being nerdish like psychology, training background, mechanics) Thats it for now.
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