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Tuesday

 

I woke up in the middle of the night again because my forearm hurt.:( Which made me super grumpy about climbing and that I constantly have little nagging injuries!

 

<Rant>

Spoiler

 

This year alone I've had a pulley injury, strained some other tendons in my hands, overused my finger joints developing something of a mild arthritis and now this forearm tendinosis (?) thing. Plus shoulders in a constantly slightly impinged state. And every time I have to deal with my head, which is bad enough as it is. :P I love climbing, but this is just not sustainable... Had climbing been my only interest, or if I didn't suck at it, I might see it differently, but right now I really don't see the point of constantly feeling more or less broken. I'm not sure how to proceed though (more training and less climbing? Lowering intensity, if so how?) Part of me just wants to go fuck it and go and do handstands instead, but I know that's just the lack of sleep talking. :P 

 

</rant>

 

I didn't manage to shake off the bad feelings during todays climbing session though. My forearm didn't even irritate me too much, but I still didn't want to try anything even remotely hard and climbed way below my limit instead until I got bored.

 

Other than that I had a pretty good day! :) It was a remote day but I remembered to not screw up my routines too much and went outside first thing in the morning. Considering my lack of sleep I still managed to do a lot, and my handstands were not too bad either, relatively speaking.

 

Spoiler

 

1x5 pilates ball pike presses

2x5 tuck jumps - back to square 1 demented bunny hops

2x5 kick up to negative tuck HS descent

40 min freestanding - pretty good, did a few straddle HS. Sideways shoulder instability has crept back in though. Need to remember to do the Cirque physio shoulder warmup

5 crane pose attempts (toes on floor) - return of a nemesis move. It doesn’t feel too far off, but it’s killer on my wrists

2 attempts at one arm crow - another nemesis. Surprisingly enough I could do it on my right side, the first time that is, the second time face planted badly. :P Left is still behind.

 

 

SISU 2 pts

  • Got out of bed despite poor sleep +1
  • Longer morning walk +1
  • Swim, it's getting noticeably chillier now at 12C! Until I get out and then I'm super warm. +1
  • Climbing grump -2
  • Instead of going home in a sulk after climbing I stretched and did a few sets of child pose leg lifts +1

HYGGE 2 pt

  • Took a 15 minute time out in the middle of the day just listening to music. +1
  • 5 min of flow +1

LAGOM 2 pt

  • I didn't do any hard climbing, but I still climbed easy stuff instead of just sitting in a corner +1  
  • Food was easy today +1
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Wednesday

 

I woke up in the middle of the night - AGAIN! It make me ultra grumpy at work, which my boss abused by being ultra cheerful and annoying. :rolleyes:

 

Activity wise I did nothing except for a morning swim and some negative pull-ups at work. We meant to do them on Monday but some of my colleagues still suffered from so much DOMS they had to call it quits. :D 

 

When I got back home I crashed hard and spent the rest of the day binge reading until bedtime. It was actually really nice, haven't done that in a long time.

 

SISU 3 pts

  • Double points for getting out of bed! +2
  • Morning swim+1

 

HYGGE 1 pt

  • Binge reading +1

 

LAGOM -1 pt

  • Just no. -1
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On 9/18/2018 at 8:37 PM, Mad Hatter said:

I really don't see the point of constantly feeling more or less broken. I'm not sure how to proceed though (more training and less climbing? Lowering intensity, if so how?)

 

Not sure what to suggest either honestly :abnormal: To lower intensity, could you do sessions with only problems in the lower range and only one session in the higher range per week?

 

On 9/18/2018 at 8:37 PM, Mad Hatter said:

Swim, it's getting noticeably chillier now at 12C!

 

Yelp and run away :ph34r::lol:

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1 hour ago, @mu said:

Not sure what to suggest either honestly :abnormal: To lower intensity, could you do sessions with only problems in the lower range and only one session in the higher range per week?

In theory - in practice it all depends on how many shiny things there are and my mood and basically I have no self control. :P The grades here are also so extremely all over the place they're not a good indicator on the intensity of a climb (which is also dependent on style etc). But maaaybe I could limit the number of attempts per climb. I have a feeling it still won't work, but it could be worth an experiment... I've also thought about cutting down the number of days but the problem then is that then I just go crazy and wreck myself on the days I do climb. :D 

 

1 hour ago, @mu said:

Yelp and run away :ph34r::lol:

Hahaha, but it feels so good!!! :D Plus it's very noticeably awesome for recovery.

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It almost makes me think that maybe climbing isn't really all that good for you...

 

Let's see, fun & exciting, somewhat addictive, leaves your body a terrible mess...  All indications point to climbing being an honest to goodness VICE :P 

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10 minutes ago, WhiteGhost said:

It almost makes me think that maybe climbing isn't really all that good for you...

  

Let's see, fun & exciting, somewhat addictive, leaves your body a terrible mess...  All indications point to climbing being an honest to goodness VICE :P 

Shhhhh you're not supposed to pick up on that. :D 

 

I swear I don't have a problem, climbing is exercise and exercise is good for you! :lol:

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Regarding your injuries/Climbing problems: I have several friends that had the same problems. Stretching is the key, and most of them also do Yoga.

Climbing/Bouldering is shortening your muscles but just one way, the counterparts of these muscles need to be used and prepared as well.

E.g. biceps (climbing) -> triceps

Did you already see a sports physician?

 

Snack: How about muesli/protein bars?

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1 minute ago, Arkania said:

Regarding your injuries/Climbing problems: I have several friends that had the same problems. Stretching is the key, and most of them also do Yoga.

 Climbing/Bouldering is shortening your muscles but just one way, the counterparts of these muscles need to be used and prepared as well.

 E.g. biceps (climbing) -> triceps

 

Snack: How about muesli/protein bars?

I think all of my friends have the same problem. :D They're strategy is to ignore it though. :rolleyes: 

I feel like I when I do handstands and backbends I get both pretty decent stretching and antagonist training, though I'm the first to admit I don't do either regularly enough. But I dunno, it feels like my biggest issue is intensity regulation more than anything else - one day I do ALL THE CLIMBS and project really hard stuff until I literally can't hold on to the biggest jug anymore, then I feel broken the next time but I still climb. I also get really stubborn about some climbs and spend forever doing the same moves over and over again until eventually something snaps.

 

Not filling enough, too much like eating candy!  

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Hahah, I am with you on the constantly have something nagging the body situation. The only thing I've heard that actually helps is sleeping like 9+ hours a night, but that isn't always super feasible.  Limiting attempts is a good thought! You still get to go and work on the things but don't necessarily throw yourself at it quite as hard.

 

Meeting snacks -- I like dried edamame, carrots + hummus (I keep some in my work fridge at all times), yogurt, string cheese

 

Boo about your middle of the night wake-up calls! 

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13 minutes ago, raptron said:

The only thing I've heard that actually helps is sleeping like 9+ hours a night,

So true, sleep is THE biggest thing for recovery for me! Usually I sleep pretty well and don't use an alarm, so I think I'm typically pretty good on that front. Helps more with overall abuse over specific abuse though.... ;) 

 

Good snack ideas, though I might have throw them into a random stuff bowl type thing rather than individual items. With individual items, whatever they are, I seem to just grab one snack after the other without getting satiated.

 

giphy.gif

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On 9/18/2018 at 2:37 PM, Mad Hatter said:

I constantly have little nagging injuries!

 

On 9/20/2018 at 10:29 AM, raptron said:

Hahah, I am with you on the constantly have something nagging the body situation.

 

dear friends, I'm here with some disappointing news about what your forties are going to be like

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On 9/23/2018 at 4:34 PM, zenLara said:

Is your forearm back to normal now?

No. :sorrow: I went to the doctor just now because everyone kept nagging and she put me on anti inflammatories and said no fun for a WEEK. And then see from there. I checked in with my physio friends to see and unfortunately she agrees. :( I was really hoping she wouldn't because she's not an advocate of rest, but alas... 

 

Once my grumbles subsides stretching and abs it is!

 

18 hours ago, RogueLibrarian said:

dear friends, I'm here with some disappointing news about what your forties are going to be like

:D But now it's just my own stupidity that causes my niggles, I can't even use age as an excuse. :P 

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Oh wow it looks like I haven't updated my thread for quite a while! Honestly I've been struggling on and off, climbing, mood etc. Nothing too bad, just a bit turmoily mood. Fall I guess. :) My forearm is disrupting my sleep which is a main culprit methinks. But generally things are ok.

 

Friday was quite bad, all I wanted to do was to go home and play computer games, but my friends wouldn't let me miss AW so I came out for "one beer". Technically I did only have one beer, it just happened to be followed by dinner and wine and many cocktails. ;) Not what I had in mind but good times. :) 

 

Saturday I went climbing, I didn't particularly want to and I procrastinated to the last minute (actually I was almost an hour late) but in the end I went because I thought maybe moving a little would help my mood. It didn't. I just felt awkward on the wall and my forearm hurt and I got grumpy.

 

Sunday was pure laziness?

 

There were at least lots of forest walks during the weekend and a swim.

 

Monday I went out for cocktails as it was my friend's birthday. We went to an amaaaaazing bar that we hadn't been to before, with a secret entrance and where you have to knock on the door to get in. Think English detective story and you'll get the vibe of the place. :) The drinks were fantastic too, presentations included a working electrical toy locomotive, a teeny paper boat and the best of all, a sauna themed cocktail for two that came in beautiful copper mugs and a separate cup with heated rocks in that when you did "löyly" (sauna term for pouring water on the rocks to generate steam) you got a bunch of steam coming out of it. Really cool.

 

Tuesday I started off with a morning swim - the temperature had dropped by four degrees since the weekend and now it was C.O.L.D. at 8C. Not enough to give me a thermal shock but there was a lot of prickling sensations. Felt pretty awesome to challenge myself and doing something rather insane, just like that. :) 

 

In the evening I went to a networking/speed dating style recruitment thingy. I tried to come in with an open mind to see if there was anything that piqued my interest but most of it sounded really boring tbh... Feel a little stuck when it comes to career stuff. I guess there was one potentially interesting company, there wasn't an obvious fit for me but she said my mixed bag of experience could perhaps be useful somewhere. We'll see. The whole experience was quite out of my comfort zone, but at least I got to chat with some interesting people and got free food. ;) 

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That cocktail bar sounds really cool

 

14 minutes ago, Mad Hatter said:

the temperature had dropped by four degrees since the weekend and now it was C.O.L.D. at 8C. Not enough to give me a thermal shock but there was a lot of prickling sensations.

8C was not enough to give you thermal shock? o_O  I am shivering just thinking about it

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44 minutes ago, WhiteGhost said:

That cocktail bar sounds really cool

 

8C was not enough to give you thermal shock? o_O  I am shivering just thinking about it

 

My thoughts too!

 

1 hour ago, Mad Hatter said:

Feel a little stuck when it comes to career stuff. I guess there was one potentially interesting company, there wasn't an obvious fit for me but she said my mixed bag of experience could perhaps be useful somewhere. We'll see. The whole experience was quite out of my comfort zone, but at least I got to chat with some interesting people and got free food. ;) 

 

At least you're in a position where you can check out opportunities without too much hurry - unless your job is getting really really annoying of course.

Maybe you need to go to more of this types of event, if you are not sure about what to do / what to look for, at least you can see what is available.

 

I hope the forearm sorts itself out and quickly!

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2 hours ago, WhiteGhost said:

8C was not enough to give you thermal shock? o_O  I am shivering just thinking about it

Not really, no. Partly because I've adapted and partly, because the air temperature was even colder than the water. :D 

 

1 hour ago, @mu said:

At least you're in a position where you can check out opportunities without too much hurry - unless your job is getting really really annoying of course.

Maybe you need to go to more of this types of event, if you are not sure about what to do / what to look for, at least you can see what is available.

 

I hope the forearm sorts itself out and quickly!

 

Work is actually pretty chill atm, the stoopid comes in on an almost daily basis but at this point there's nothing else to do but laugh at it. :P So generally things are ok, just uninspiring.

 

That's why I went! :) I'll keep an eye out for other events, but as you say, at the moment there's no pressure.

 

 

Thanks, I really hope so too!

 

1 hour ago, Elastigirl said:

Woohoo for ice swimming- very badass! Bummer about the forearm, hope it heals quickly and you can go climbing next week

No ice quite yet ;) Thanks, I hope so too!

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Not much to report! I spent some time cleaning and reorganising things in my flat that have been bugging me and now it’s all shiny. :) Other than that I’ve been mostly lazy. 

 

My elbow is getting worse if anything. I’m still a little grumpy about it, mostly because there’s no prognosis and nothing I can actively do about it, but honestly I’m also a little relieved that I have an excuse to chill my brain for a bit. :P I’ve also decided to cut down climbing to just twice a week and spend a little more time “training” as this is getting dumb now. 

 

I read this article and it made me a little uncomfortable because it’s so me and yet so very not me. Evil twin takeover sort of thing.

 

http://flowmovement.net/thoughts/2018/9/25/expectation-makeover

 

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57 minutes ago, Mad Hatter said:

 

I read this article and it made me a little uncomfortable

Wow, that hit really close to home...  I don't complain about it much here, but I often feel extremely frustrated that after more than 18 months of training to get a muscle up I feel like I am no closer than Iwas when I started.  That change in attitude is going to critical to not give up, because I know I still have a long way to go before I get there.

 

I hope your new schedule helps the elbow recover

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2 hours ago, WhiteGhost said:

Wow, that hit really close to home...  I don't complain about it much here, but I often feel extremely frustrated that after more than 18 months of training to get a muscle up I feel like I am no closer than Iwas when I started.  That change in attitude is going to critical to not give up, because I know I still have a long way to go before I get there.

  

I hope your new schedule helps the elbow recover

Some frustration is ok I think, as long as it doesn't get to you or take away the fun. Which for me has often not been the case... I should print the article and put in a wall or something. :P 

 

This paragraph in particular sums up me and climbing a liiiiiiittle too well...

 

Quote

Some individuals with this tendency have an addictive and abusive relationship with their chosen activity. It appears that the cycle of frustration and self-defeating dialogue is their motivator. It's the through-line of their choices. What they 'lack' keeps them pushing until a physical ailment forces them to change their approach.

 

Thanks! First step is to get back to climbing at all! 

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