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Is it even possible for me to get a car?


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Hey all,

Almost a year ago, I moved from New York City to a small town in Vermont. I can (barely) get through my day-to-day errands without a car, but I'll be starting grad school in the fall and need to figure something out. I make just over minimum wage and don't have a lot of money to spare. I trashed my credit in college, and while my score is better since then, it is still bad enough that I won't be able to get a lease or loan for several years, I imagine.

 

Do any of you rebels have any experience getting a car with low income and bad credit? Unfortunately, I don't think my family will be able to help me.

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Been there, done that.  The most efficient answer I've ever found is to buy a dirt-cheap beater of a type that is simple to repair, and learn a LOT about automotive repair, fast.

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If you do get a beater and are trying to learn how to fix it then remember that youtube has a bucket load of videos of people fixing your exact car, you can most likely get the repair manual at the local library, and always call scrap yards for parts before you pay for new ones at an auto store. Speaking of auto stores, the usually will test stuff like batteries and alternators for free, and they have some diagnostic equipment that they loan out, at least my local one does.

 

I've been in this boat before and I've wasted a ton of money by not knowing these things

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Buying a beater is what I would do and I've done this a LOT.  I've never had a car payment and I've never spent more than $2,000 on a car when buying it (and I wrecked a lot of cars in high school).  Some things to look out for:

 

- Haynes Repair manual (website).  They completely tear down and re-assemble all the cars they write manuals for looking for what and how of that particular car.  You might find some of them lumped together that look different, but that's okay.  They explain any differences you'd come across.  Libraries have a lot of them and you can order virtually anything in the US from their site.  They have de-bugging guides, maintenance guides, and explain how systems are working.

 

- Even though you don't know what you're looking for listen to the motor and crawl under the car (or take it to a shop with a lift) and look.  Some shops will do an inspection free of charge (be sure to keep them in mind for anything simple).  If you look and something doesn't look right, sound right, or moves and it doesn't look like it's supposed to: either leave it or look it up.  I once bought a car with a funny pop when it turned and after looking I thought it was just a quick tightening of a bolt: turned out it was a $1000 repair that required specialty tools I couldn't rent from the autoparts store.

 

- You can rent tools from the autoparts store.  Basic stuff (wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers) you have to buy, but if something weird happens and you need something you've never heard of: ask if you can rent it.  Some places have a few tools you can use for free.

 

- Look for an ugly car.  Sounds silly, but you can look at a car that's a faded shade of teal and know exactly why they can't sell it for much.  If it looks good, that's worth something if all you're concerned with is getting from point A to point B, it's a cost that you don't want to pay. 

 

- Stick shift (manual transmission) cars also tend to be cheaper, but since you lived in the city I'm guessing you can't drive one.  They are fun in the country (particularly the mountains), but a pain in the butt to drive in stop and go traffic.

 

- Like someone mentioned upthread: Youtube.  It fills in the gaps from the Manual because you can see exactly what kind of karma sutra position you need to get into to get ahold of that part.

 

- If rubber parts on the engine look cracked (belts, hoses, spark plug wires) complain a lot when you're buying and go straight to the autoparts shop.  90% of those can be changed with none, one or two tools.  *THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO WIRING*  Anything that looks like a lot of tiny wires that are broken and/or burnt: run away and run very far.

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- Stick shift (manual transmission) cars also tend to be cheaper, but since you lived in the city I'm guessing you can't drive one.  They are fun in the country (particularly the mountains), but a pain in the butt to drive in stop and go traffic.

 

I really don't get why people say this. My bias is that I insisted on learning how to drive with a stick shift car and I wasn't good at it for ages (ground the gears all the time). I didn't drive an automatic for years. Once you get used to stick shift, it becomes second nature and you don't have to think about it. Driving in the city is really no more hassle than driving on the highway: you don't think about shifting, you just do it.

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I really don't get why people say this. My bias is that I insisted on learning how to drive with a stick shift car and I wasn't good at it for ages (ground the gears all the time). I didn't drive an automatic for years. Once you get used to stick shift, it becomes second nature and you don't have to think about it. Driving in the city is really no more hassle than driving on the highway: you don't think about shifting, you just do it.

 

I was taught to drive in a manual and my first car was a manual.  While in normal driving conditions I agree the stick is no big deal, but I've spent enough time in rush hour traffic to disagree overall.  Sitting on a highway for 20 minutes either shifting in and out of 1st or riding the clutch is exhausting and annoying.  Especially when it's every single day, twice a day. 

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I once bought a luxury sedan for a bottle of wine. (6,99€, to be exact). There were some 15 liters in the fuel tank, so that alone was a great deal. (fuel in Europe = expensive). 3 Liter v6, 211hp, automatic gearbox, automatic climate control, walnut dashboard, electrically adjustable leather seats, cruise control, heated rear mirrors... if it existed in the early 90s, the car had it.
One brake saddle was stuck, there was a leak in the exhaust and the underbody needed some welding. That was why it was so cheap. Cost me 850€ at a tree shade mechanic to get the car roadworthy again. Drove 50.000km in nine months and when the timing belt was due, sold the car for 130€. Spent some 2800€ (excluding fuel) in total in that time - purchase price, initial repairs, maintenance, taxes, insurance... that was the cheapest car I ever had on a per-km-basis. It could have been still cheaper, had i opted for something less luxurious (less fancy stuff in the car - less things to break).

I only buy beaters. Repairs are cheaper than depreciation. Always. I get a way bigger and comfortable car than I could afford new, and it costs me much less. However, you need liquid money. A car payment is always the same, with a beater, it is entirely possible that you drive one year with only routine maintenenace, and the next three month you spent 1000€ each. In total, that is still much cheaper than the sum of car payments, but a lot of people can't stand the uncertainty.

@Mike_d85 has already mentioned a lot of very important tips. I'd just add one: find a car enthusiast and ask him for help finding a car. Usually, they can be bribed by pizza and beer... ;-)

Rowing, rucking, running, lifting heavy stuff. Why not do it all?

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In all honesty I would try your best to use a bicycle. You save a ton of money and will gain the fitness benefit. If you can get into a cycling mindset and build your personal toughness, you will be a badass that can get around quite quick once your fitness is up. Every dollar you save will really add up while you finish your schooling

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