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Week 0 Day 6


Saturday was awesome! I saw Muse and they were incredible. Really cool live show. I almost didn't go because I didn't have anyone to go with (because of long chain of events) but I'm so glad I did! 


I also found my movement groove again. :) I put on some rock 'n' roll and before I knew it I was on the floor dancing and then I messed around with backbends and handstands and it was fun and it felt sooo good. 


Goal wise I technically didn't do that great. I nailed both of my food goals, but then I also had fancy-ish chocolate (because I wanted to try it, rather than cravings), and I had some crisps at the gig because I didn't have time to eat a proper meal before dinner and I got hungry and they only served junk. But it felt more like a "normal" person's bad eating day as opposed to eating like a crazy person. 


I also just my phone while waiting for the gig because I was bored and forgot my pen for my notepad. Whatevs. Still good!



Week 0 Day 7 (Or Week 1 Day 1? Actually don't care, I'm officially starting the challenge on Monday)


Sunday was another lovely, lovely day.  I went climbing and it was super fun! My finger was playing nice and while I still had to be extra careful about it, and I still don't feel quite so strong, I did get to climb a whole session and not just sit around for most of the time. I even climbed a few black problems, both of which I got past the crux, and a really scary red problem that I did manage to do. Super pleased with that, it feels like there's hope again. :P 


When my finger got too fatigued to climb I worked on crocodile/one armed elbow lever and I even held it for a few seconds a few times! :D 


I also did my hip stretches, a few pistol squats, core stuff and one arm hangs off my non-injured arm. I tried to do straight leg raises on the one arm but struggled with controlling the torque on my shoulder and I kept spinning off to the side. Not sure how to fix it...


Afterwards we had a barbecue and ate a lot of tasty food, which made for a very content and relaxed bunch of climbers. :D 

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14 hours ago, karinajean said:

it's so super tricky to manage less internetting while at home and also keep up with these boards! I have been really struggling with it over the last few challenges. but I know you'll find a way! :)


I think the solution is to work less at work. :P 

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Week 0 Summary


After this week I feel like life is getting back on track again. :) Especially on the food front it feels like the hard reset worked and my habits are getting back to normal. I like setting mini-goals, it feels so much easier to say I won't eat junk for two days than for 4 weeks, even including variances.


The no device goal is interesting. It's quite difficult to not pick up the phone and check stuff in any spare moments. Not in the way that it's difficult to resist, it's just such an ingrained habit. It's also difficult to not immediately google any question that pops into my head, which is frequently, and I have to constantly remind myself that the Internet can wait. It's also trickier to keep up with the forums and post updates. On the other hand my brain does feel a lot less scatterbrained already and I started to journal in the evenings so I won't forget my updates. Journalling is something I've tried to do a few times but never made it stick as a habit, but now that I "have to" I'm finding it quite a nice way to unwind and reflect on my day. So it feels like I might be getting two positive habits out of one goal. :) 


When it comes strength training it was perhaps a bit optimistic to squeeze in 3 times a week, especially now that I can climb properly again. I think I'm going to award myself 0.5 points for mini strength sessions like this, and aim for 2 points/week instead. 


I've kept up really well with my mobility work and my body is beginning to feel much better! Still far from perfect, so I do need to keep it up and make it a solid habit.


Walkovers will need a lot of work, and frequency I think will be key here. So I think I'm going to set a target of 3 practices/week on average. But it's still a side quest so the other goals will take priority.


Overall, not bad, and I look forward to starting this challenge for real! :D 


Goal #1: Make stuff work nice - 6/6

Goal #2: Get back to basics - 1/2 strength training sessions. 

Goal #3: Something about diet - 5.5/6

  1. Cook dinner - Passed, laab
  2. N/A - Forgot to set a goal
  3. No junk for two days - Passed
  4. No junk (From day 3) - Passed-ish
  5. Batch cook - Passed, pulled pork and chicken thingy
  6. Really savour pastry - Passed, but I did have other unhealthy things as well


Goal #4: Get off the computer - 4/6 

Fun quest: Walkovers - 1/? practices



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Thanks for the sympathy. Dr Google and fellow climbers say it's the most classic of climbing injuries, an A2 pulley sprain on the ring finger. It's mild as far as sprains go, but the thing about fingers is that once they get injured it's reaaaally easy to re-injure them again. Which is why this is the 3rd time in less than 8 weeks that I've injured it. :( 


This time I finally learned my lesson. I started climbing way too hard way too soon and if I don't want to make it even worse and disable myself for months and months I will have to restrain myself and follow some kind of getting back to climbing protocol. Even if it pains me. So 1-2 weeks of complete rest, then if it feels ok I can go back to climb blue problems for the next few weeks. But only static climbs or right handed climbs where I'm in complete control. After that I can slooowly introduce easier red problems with no crimps and no dynamic moves. After another few weeks of boring climbing I should be able to very gradually up the difficulty. If I don't hurt it again I should aim to get back to my current level over a period of at least a few months, all the time avoiding any moves that don't feel 100% secure. :( Tendons are just that slow to heal, even for a grade 1 sprain. And I'll need to tape it the entire time. Sigh.


5 hours ago, raptron said:

Don't let it get in your head! There are lots and lots and lots of things you can work on while you let it heal. The world is at the (rest of) your fingertips. <3 


I admit I did let it go to my head. I've been moping something terribly since yesterday and let all of my challenge goals slip. But I'll get back on track tomorrow, promise. As you say there are loads of things that I can do. I will even be able to climb soon, it will just be awfully boring. So tomorrow will see respawn #2...

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Will the finger injury affect any of your other things, like the backbends, contortion, or hand balancing?  If not, you might just have to shift your focus a bit until the finger is more healed.  Also, maybe you could work on routes that are more balance and footwork based and less grip strength based.  Or work a lot of sloper problems.  Unfortunately, finger tendon injuries take forever to heal. :( 

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HAH nope I haven't been kicking butt. In fact I did the opposite, I spent weekend deep in the forest celebrating midsummer with lots of food and lots of booze together with awesome people. We even built a proper maypole this year. And made all the non-Swedes* do the frog dance around it. It was pretty hilarious. So yeeeaahh I didn't do anything for the challenge, but I did have an amazing time. :D 


*I say non-Swedes but actually out of 9 people there were only 2*0.5 genetically Swedish people. So I guess I should say people-that-haven't-been-brought-up-in-Sweden. Which is actually still incorrect. The most correct would be people-that-have-never-been-exposed-to-the-very-silly-and-weird-Swedish-traditions.


17 minutes ago, Nymeria said:

Will the finger injury affect any of your other things, like the backbends, contortion, or hand balancing?  If not, you might just have to shift your focus a bit until the finger is more healed.  Also, maybe you could work on routes that are more balance and footwork based and less grip strength based.  Or work a lot of sloper problems.  Unfortunately, finger tendon injuries take forever to heal. :( 


Backbends will be fine. Hand balancing I should take it easy with as it takes a lot of finger strength and the finger position I use is kind of like a crimp, just not quite as extreme. I'll still be able to practice them, but I need to be careful as my finger fatigues very quickly. And I can work on crocodiles. :) 


For the climbing I'll do exactly that, just going very slowly. It will be boring, but climbing is kind of my social time and I don't want to miss out! But I had the idea that I might film people climbing and put together a little video. We've been talking about videoing more as it's quite fun to have stuff on film, plus it's very useful. Now I won't be in it, but it could still be a fun project. I also thought I could work on observing how other people climb and try and actually read the routes as that's something I'm really terrible at. 


Another thing I think I'll do is to try and go back to my fit weight that I was so happy with back in November. Because more weight really equals more stress on the fingers, especially when gaining as quickly as I did. And I feel kind of icky and weak. :( I'm terrible at this whole losing weight thing, but this really is the PERFECT time for it. I don't have any classes, I won't be doing any hard climbing, it's summer so I can walk a lot, I don't have any major travel plans in the pipeline and work is going to get really chill over the summer as there's almost nobody in the office. I just need to not eat like a jerk. That's it! 

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Tentative plan for this week:

  • Tuesday: Strength training
  • Wednesday: Workshop on why there are few women in tech. Bake a cake. ;) 
  • Thursday: Massage and long walk. Make a meal plan.
  • Friday: Day off! :D (We get the day off because of midsummer celebration. We just celebrated a week early because we didn't get the planning right. :P
    • Strength training
    • Food prep Friday or Saturday
  • Saturday: Backbends
  • Sunday: Strength training

Food goal: Eat around 1800 kcal/day on average

Underpants goal: Go through at least one pile of my mobility underpants collection, trying out different exercises.


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