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stood up to catch a wave today


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After many hours of surf lessons last year and this I finally got it today. Got to my feet just before lunch and rode that wave all the way in to the sand, steady as you like.

Managed a few more this afternoon, some wobbly, some pretty dam steady. I am so impressed with myself right now, the last minute decision to come down to Cornwall was the best one I've made in quite a while.

I honestly never thought I'd manage to get to my feet, and was happy enough with surfing on my knees, but standing today was a rush like nothing else. I wonder how much more progress I can make tomorrow before I have to go home?

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