Grip Strength

[LizOh]

I've started rock climbing.

My pals keep saying it's all in the legs, but the available grips are getting smaller as the difficulty of some of the puzzles I'm working on increases. I think focusing on grip strength would help me some. Are any of you aware of any good resources or techniques for improving grip strength?

Thanks!

Liz Oh

[This is Seth]

http://www.nerdfitness.com/community/showthread.php?11761-Deadlift-and-Grip-Strength

http://www.nerdfitness.com/community/showthread.php?11586-How-s-your-forearm-grip-strength

http://www.nerdfitness.com/community/showthread.php?10609-Deadlift-grip-strength

Grip strength is a common topic in the Warrior's Forge. Have a peak at theses topics(see what I did there?), though they will mainly tell you to to static holds, towel pull ups, and farmer's carries. All fun and painful techniques.

[LizOh]

Awesome, thanks! Sorry to ask a question that had already been covered...

[This is Seth]

No worries. It'll probably end up in our General Knowledge sub-forum soon enough.

[cline]

What was posted above! AND

you'll need to work on fingertip strength for climbing. It's not just in the lower part of the hand. Practice fingertip gripping things - tennis balls, etc. Also, you can try L-sit on the ground on fingertips if you are strong enough.

When you get good at climbing and the holds get smaller, you'll realize it's fingertips.

Oh yeah and it's all in the legs! Really. PUSH!!!!

[WizardTrip]

Both Seth and Cline covered it perfectly!

Rock climbing is 80% in the legs. Stat just made up, but the point is, most is legs. Your grip is mostly to hold you to the wall and that is where finger gripping is important. It's not until you start hitting the walls that get you horizontal (or cave style climbing) that grip and upper body strength start becoming more important.

[ZenGwen]

I'm surprised this wasn't posted in any of the other threads on the topic: http://artofmanliness.com/2011/11/10/molding-a-mighty-grip-strength/

[LizOh]

Ha! Finger tip strength was the question I should have been asking about - not that I don't want to have an awesome grip or anything. But now that Cline has said it, the outcome I really want is to be able to stick my fingers onto a little ledge and have them add to my balance while my legs are doing the other 80%.

In case anyone else is interested, I had to google l-sits and discovered this awesome article http://www.beastskills.com/tutorials/tutorials/36, which also advises fingertip pushups if you aren't strong enough to do l-sits.

Thanks everybody!

[WizardTrip]

Ha! Finger tip strength was the question I should have been asking about - not that I don't want to have an awesome grip or anything. But now that Cline has said it, the outcome I really want is to be able to stick my fingers onto a little ledge and have them add to my balance while my legs are doing the other 80%.

In case anyone else is interested, I had to google l-sits and discovered this awesome article http://www.beastskills.com/tutorials/tutorials/36, which also advises fingertip pushups if you aren't strong enough to do l-sits.

Thanks everybody!

Took me a moment, but thinking more about finger grip strength reminded me of some guides/videos/something I saw awhile back to help out. The idea is a "Four Finger Hang". This video will give you an idea of what it is, but it is exactly what the name says, hanging by just four fingers on each hand.

http://www.blinkx.com/watch-video/four-finger-hang-duration/3ARhiYuZB3CcEoFRD7EnVA

Still looking for what I had in mind, but google for "four finger hang" and you'll get some hits.

EDIT: Actually, this may refer to 4 total fingers. Index and middle of each hand only, but still the focus is gaining finger grip.

[scarletleavy]

Also, just climb more. Seriously, that's usually the answer to any question related to climbing training. Other exercises can be helpful, but the best training for climbing is climbing.

Climbing finger grip is pretty specific, it's not just about strength, it also has a lot to do with friction. I'm also finding there's a definite mental component to working with small grips. You just have to go for it and believe you're gonna hold it, you can't be second guessing your grip and thinking it won't hold.